|Work from fixed objects, like concrete sidewalks, out towards the open yard.|
Laying the Brick:
It is important that you don’t walk on the leveled screenings. The smoother
the screenings, the tighter the brick will fit and the easier the installation.
Leave the screed-rails in place for now so you can re-level the screenings
if you accidently step on or drop something on them. You will start laying
the brick from any fix location you have, like a concrete patio, sidewalk
or deck. As stated earlier, your base is larger than your project by six
inches on each side. By working from any fixed sides out towards the open
yard, you can adjust the project size to accommodate full bricks, minimizing
the amount of bricks you need to cut.
Place the brick directly on the limestone screenings. Most paving brick have built-in spacerbars and should be placed tight against its neighbor. A rubber mallet can be used to move them tight but is usually not needed. Once you have some brick down and in place, you can stand on these brick to install more brick farther into you project. Continue placing the brick. If you need to cut a brick, just leave a gab and continue placing full bricks. Once the full bricks are all down, now you can rent a saw and cut any brick you need, placing them into the gabs you left.
Once completed, it is time to remove your screed-rails and install your brick edging (if needed). If the rails are below grade, fill the gap with crushed gravel and compact. Level with some limestone screenings and compact. Install your brick edging to contain your project and backfill with some dirt to hide the edging.
Almost done! The last step is to take some fine mason sand and sweep it into the cracks between the brick. You may have to do this two or three times. The sand will filter down between the brick and lock the brick in place.